
So, we went out with our first (of two, the other was last night, Saturday the 25th of February)
bloco on Friday night, and it was awesome, much better than anyone could have even described. It was officially the second night of Carnival but the first big one. My brother Anthony and I met some other English-speaking folks that I know and we went downstairs to where (quite by chance) the float / truck for our bloco, called Eu & Você (Me and You) was parked. There’s a band that plays with each bloco – ours was Timbalada, which to the people who know what they’re talking about is the best one of the Salvador Carnival bands. The most popular, by far, is Chiclete com Banana (Banana-Flavored Gum), but their crowd is a little more obnoxious and less concerned with good music and more with drinking and having a good time (and hey, no arguments with that here).

So to briefly describe the way things work (full details are at http://bahia-online.net/Carnival.htm), the most secure and participatory way to enjoy carnival in Salvador is to buy a t-shirt for a particular bloco (ours cost around $65 and $75 for Friday and Saturday night, respectively) which lets you stand, dance, drink, make out, and otherwise party within the bounds of what we in the States would call something like a float. There are usually two huge trucks, the first with a big sound system and the band, and the second with bathrooms, concessions, and emergency facilities, which people gather around and walk the Carnival route with. There are two routes, Avenida / Campo Grande and Barra / Ondina, of which we were a part of the second. The Barra / Ondina route runs right past my apartment. The people with the t-shirts (there were probably around 2000 in Eu & Você) walk with the floats inside the boundary of some ropes which are held by security personnel outside the trucks. Along the way people watch the parade from either the street or things called
camarotes, which are like balcony seating that is temporarily installed along the street for Carnival. You have to pay to stay in the camarotes, which have things like dance floors, drinks, air conditioning, and seating. These are for the people who prefer to take the less participatory (*cough*, lame) route of enjoying Carnival. In the Campo Grande route I also saw some bleacher seats that were set up there, and I’m certain you had to pay for those as well, although I’m also sure that they weren’t nearly as comfortable as the camarotes.

I’ll try to just point out the highlights because there were so many great things and I’m sure I’m forgetting most. Also you just have to be there. My favorite, I think, were a couple of goofballs who decided to try doing capoeira without putting their beer cans down first. Then there were the equally drunk guys who decided to have one guy pull along a kids Barbie-themed suitcase (with a pull-out handle) and drag it while some other huge guy rode it. Nearly all of the 10 or so really drunk guys who later tried to ride it ended up falling flat on their ass. Things got a little crazier in the last half of the route, when people were feeling the effects of the beer ("I am definitely drunk now", said one of our companions). Certain songs had cues which we we foreigners were unaware of, at which point people would run at full speed towards the front of the float, and then towards the back. A big gap would open up between both ends, and people would be laughing and yelling, and rightfully scared, until the cue came along, the music turned up, and everyone raced to wherever it was they were supposed to go. You would see a crowd of a thousand or so people stampeding towards you, which meant you had essentially no choice other than to run with them, stumbling and pushing people in front of you. To some this may sound horrifying, but it was really, really fun.

But before all this, while we were assembling at the meeting point for the bloco, there were people who were (for a fee, nothing here is free) painting people’s arms, legs and faces with white war-looking paint designs, something that the drum players for Timbalada do when they play and which people in the Timbalada blocos are known to do as well. Then around sunset, which you could see directly to our right over the ocean, the drum players all showed up above us on the float, decked out in the aforementioned white paint designs and looking totally, totally cool. After a few sound tests the guys started drumming and one of Timbalada’s three (one woman and two men) singers came out, dressed in green tights and a pimp-style coat, and sporting a huge, fake afro (it looked better than it sounds), and the crowd (it was now a crowd, strangely) in and around the float roared and started dancing and jumping up and down, and we started walking up the hill, very slowly, towards Farol da Barra.
The bloco wasn’t nearly as packed or violent or disorganized as I had expected, although I think things may have been different with other blocos like Ana Banana. Most of the time you could just walk along casually (in step to the beat of course) without being hemmed in by a lot of people. Later on, however, things were definitely much more chaotic, and we got packed in like sardines for maybe 30 minutes at a time at least twice. This wouldn’t have been so bad if there hadn’t been so many people (read: men) with their shirts of who you could feel sliding past you, lubricated by their (and your) sweat. Needless to say my brother and I showered quite thoroughly as soon as we got back, around 5 hours after we started :).

One other cool thing that they do from the camarotes is that they throw little party-favor kinds of things into the blocos, which everyone tries to catch while pushing, shoving, and clawing everyone else out of the way. The party favors were either bandanas with the camarote sponsors’ insignia on them, and in some cases there were cheap plastic soccer-like balls. My brother Anthony caught two. I’m glad he was able to come to Carnival in Salvador to find out what certainly would have been an otherwise undiscovered and therefore wasted talent. He caught the second one when there was this *gorgeous* woman who I could swear was Margareth Menezes throwing Skol (beer) bandandas down at people in our bloco, aimed right at me. I *swear* that I saw the guy next to her look and point at me, and tell her to throw me one. She did about five times, each of which I missed because I’m too short and because my brother pushed me out of the way at least once. He said I could have it but I told him I wanted one that I
earned. A few minutes later I recanted and tied it around my head. He said I looked like a cancer patient.

People who act crazy in the blocos are called
pipocas (popcorns) because they jump up and down. I had heard this many months before and determined that I wanted to be a pipoca, so I spent a lot of time jumping up and down during the parade and as a result my feet killed when I got back. While most of the Brazilians sang along to the songs while dancing, I spent most of the time jumping up and down with my hands raised and yelling "WOOOHOOO!", which, if you don’t know the words to the songs because they’re in Portuguese, is a good fallback plan. People don’t know for sure if you don’t know the words – maybe you’re just really happy, or drunk, or both.